From the category archives:

Brazil

Danger in Latin America

Danger in Latin America

The beauty of the Internet is that you can, easily, from the comfort of your own home, get first hand impressions from people about particular topics.  Anything from how dangerous a certain part of the world is, to how easily do the women put out, and anything in between.  People love shortcuts, and would rather get their views via second hand sources, than putting themselves out there and learning themselves.

One of the first questions people ask me after finding out that I lived in Brazil, is how dangerous the country is.  The short answer: it depends.  It depends on about a million things: a big chunk that you have control over, and a big chunk that you don’t.

Simple example to illustrate my point. When I was living in Rio, I was at the same time frequenting various travel forums.  On one of these forums, there was a discussion started by a guy who was robbed twice in Rio on the exact same street and close to the same hour that you’d usually find me walking home from my Jiu Jitsu training.  The street in question (Avenida Copacabana) was a busy artery in one of the busiest neighborhoods in Rio and at the said hour was filled with tons of people coming home from work.

Knowing that I walked that street pretty much five days a week, week in and week out, I was quite perplexed how can something unfortunate happen twice to someone when I personally found the area anything but dangerous or shady.

“How the heck can you get robbed twice in two weeks, when as I’m reading your story I had just come back from being on the same street, and nothing bad had ever happened to me.  Am I from another planet, or am I missing some key information?”  I was completely dumbfounded as I read this guy’s story in my apartment in Copacabana.

It was at this point that I realized that every single person will have a unique experience, and no one can be trusted to provide any kind of “de facto” reference written in stone that other people can infer conclusions from.  It’s silly, stupid and downright dangerous.

Sure it seems common sense, but tell it to the hundreds or thousands of people who ask these questions on Internet forums every single day.

Everybody is different and everyone will have a unique experience.  Period.  End of story.

Having travelled as long as I have and talked to hundreds of travelers about their stories, I can probably look at you and tell what your chances are of being robbed/mugged/assaulted in Latin America.

There was an 18-year old Dutch kid who got robbed in Venezuela when he crossed the border from Colombia.  Does this make Venezuela dangerous? Maybe.  But when you actually meet the kid things become clearer.  He is a scrawny kid with a baby face.  He’s a virgin traveller on his first trip outside Europe.  His body language reveals someone who wouldn’t be able to defend himself if a situation arose.

An English guy who I met in Colombia was robbed in one of the safest places I’ve ever been: Buenos Aires, Argentina.  Does it send shivers down my spine of ever visiting the place?  Of course not.  I’ve been there five or six times, and never even came close to having any kind of  problem.  Of course, I’d argue that I look more Latin American, have more New York swagger, and being a more seasoned traveller than someone experiencing their first culture shock on a plane from London.  Or it could just luck of the draw.

Speaking of Colombia, a guy and his wife were robbed in an affluent area of Medellin.  He is Venezuelan but his wife is as American as apple pie.  I’ll be the first to bet the farm that had it been just him walking down that dark alley alone, nobody would ever step up to him.

On the flip-side, take a typical 25+ year old guy from Brooklyn, NY.  He could be a native New Yorker but with an Italian, Russian, or (insert your Southern/Eastern European country here) heritage.  He could also be foreign born.  He is not a hipster and doesn’t live in Williamsburg, Park Slope or Dumbo, but in a more “working class” neighborhood like Coney Island, Midwood or Bensonhurst.  He’s street smart and knows how to hustle.  He’ll probably be OK.

Same goes for a Mexican guy from LA, or a Cuban guy from Miami Beach.

The proliferation of travel blogs made it seem that independent travel is easy; that it’s for everyone; and that you’ll be OK travelling anywhere if you just follow common sense precautions like keeping a copy of your passport and knowing where the nearest embassy is.  The result is that Latin America is flooded with first-time travelers, many from small cities with limited experience of dealing with less savory individuals.  Many of those are from rich countries and are not accustomed to the chaos of less developed nations.  Many of those will have the time of their lives, some will not.  The latter will probably write about it and scare the rest.

It all depends on your prior experience in life, what obstacles you faced and how you dealt with them.  But don’t take a page out of my thick and worn book; get on that plane and start writing your own very first chapter.  Just be aware that your experience can be vastly different than that latest thread about being assaulted on 5th Avenue on a busy Saturday in New York that is spreading virally on the Internet.

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A Russian In Mexico

A Russian In Mexico

A Russian Who Spoke Fluent Spanish

I remember like it was yesterday.  It was probably 8-10 years ago (circa 2002-2003), and I was in a friend’s house with a bunch of my (mostly Russian) friends.  I don’t remember what the conversation was about specifically but one friend mentioned how he enjoyed last Thursday’s poker game, how it was a great crowd, and how he enjoyed meeting Vlad, a Russian guy who spoke fluent Spanish after living in Mexico for 5 years.  That last part about speaking fluent Spanish and living abroad really got me curious.

I immediately pictured a young Russian guy living in Mexico City, having tons of cool Mexican friends, going out, partying, shooting the shit, maybe even having a hot Fresa (a snobby mid-upper class Mexican female) girlfriend.  In another words someone who is completely immersed in the culture and not merely someone who came to Cancun for a weekend.  Had the language been German and the country Germany, I’d probably not given it another thought, but if you’re cool and fluent in Spanish, you’d have no problem integrating into Mexican culture (which I consider my favorite Latin American country, and Mexicans some of the friendliest people).

It took me a while, but around 8 years later, I’ve finally done it.  Between random back and forth trips to Tijuana and Ensenada, I’ve finally booked a one way ticket to Mexico City, a city I’ve been dying to go to for a long time.  I didn’t live there for 5 years, but rather spent 3 months in Mexico City with 3 more months in subsequent backpacking.  It was an awesome experience, but one that I eventually did top few years later.

The Plan

After roughly 6 months of traveling in Mexico, I flew to Bogota, Colombia.  My plan was to spend 1 week in Bogota, and 1 week on the Caribbean coast.

I checked into my hostel, and made friends with everyone.  The next day, during a typical Colombian tropical rainstorm, all of us sat in the living room and exchanged travel stories.  A quiet guy in his mid 20s mentioned how he was going to spend the next 6 months in Bogota writing his master’s thesis, and thus was looking for an apartment.

I surely found him different than the typical of “backpacker” crowd.  Unlike a typical backpacker, who wouldn’t stay more than 3 days in this city, here’s a guy who would made this rainy and cold city his home for the next 6 months, and above all, without knowing anyone in advance.

We talked a bit more and he mentioned how he also lived in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil for 6 months.  Obviously I was genuinely curious about everything from the language to the girls to the security of the city.

Unknowing to him, a seed was planted in my head and made me wonder if perhaps one day I’d be able to to just go to somewhere and stay for minimum of 6 months, without knowing anyone and not even speaking the language before hand.

I was right and wrong.  In less than a year, I was on a flight to Rio, but I ended up staying about 2 years.

And that’s the way I’ve been traveling ever since.

It’s All An Investment

I pick a country that I feel is worth my investment (time, money, but mostly time) come here and stay put for minimum of 3-6 months, if not more.  I learn the language, the culture, traditions, understand the country on levels that backpackers and other passerby’s merely scratch the surface.  I view time as the most scarce resource that we all have, and the best way to take advantage of that resource is by making investments — investments in yourself by learning and growing, and not just sleepwalking through life.

Basically I want to know every city I live in as good as the city I grew up in: Brooklyn, NY.

Why spent your whole life in one city, when you can get to know 10+ world class cities equally, solidly, expertly as good?

They say that people in New York walk a certain way, so that it becomes easy to see who is from New York or who is not.  But how do they walk in Caracas, Venezuela or Rio de Janeiro, Brazil?

So the next time someone asks me, “Hey, what’s Rio like? Is it dangerous?” I can tell them the REAL story from the ground.  Not how Rio is dangerous but how it’s a complicated city and that you’ll have no problem if you don’t do stupid shit that most Western tourists do (and subsequently pay for).

I’ve met and read about people who’ve been to over 90 countries.  Great! But anybody can do that.  I can buy a round-the-world ticket and see a ton of countries.  But, what value did they gain from hopping on a flight after flight? How can you learn anything about the place if you spent a week or even two there?  I want to tell people from the point of view of a local, but a week’s worth of travel is anything but.

Obviously it varies from place to place. I personally like to seek “developing/southern” cities since they have a much more interesting story to tell.  I’d take Palermo, Italy over Berlin, Germany any day.  And a city like Los Angeles, with it’s man-made, mass-produced synthetic culture is definitely not for me.  On the other hand, culture-rich cities like Rio de Janeiro-Brazil, Istanbul-Turkey and Odessa-Ukraine are just teeming with things beneath the surface waiting to be discovered, and understood.

It also varies in the amount of time. Brazil is a huge country and warranted my extraordinary time.  As I’m losing my interest in all things Spanish, any further travel to a Spanish city, like Barcelona or Santiago, would be quick.

As I get older and (hopefully) more travel savvy, I begin to view my 3-6+ months as a solid investment.  When it’s time to board my flight out of the country, I better have something to show for.  I better have accumulated something that made be a better, wiser person.  It’s like I’m an onion that’s adding layers every time I live abroad.  I better be fluent in something.

If I lived in a country and barely picked up anything, then I’d wonder what was the point?  If I wanted sunny weather, I could’ve just stayed in Miami.

And that Russian who spoke fluent Spanish? I’m him now, except not only does he speak fluent Spanish but also fluent Portuguese as well.

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The Top Cities To Live In Latin America

March 17, 2011

Tropical Brazil Way before I embarked to live in a foreign country, apart from my adopted homeland, The United States, I used to travel profusely.  From weekend trips to Tijuana to random weeklong trips to Southeast Asia, I loved it because traveling provides freedom and freedom is something we all yearn for. And I loved every minute [...]

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Is Dating Easier For Foreigners?

November 29, 2010

Being a foreigner is great in many ways. You get off the plane, and instantly trying to soak the culture around you. There are many factors that will determine the quality of the trip, but for single guys or gals a big part of that will be the ease of hooking up with the locals. [...]

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Brazilian Dating Guide For Men

July 30, 2010

It’s generally easy for a Western male to date in lower income countries, especially in Latin America.  Being a Westerner automatically associates you with money, and a chance for the girl to obtain a visa back to the richer country.  It also draws in girls who might be tired of the macho-infested culture and are [...]

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Training Brazilian Jiu Jitsu in Brazil

July 26, 2010

In one of my previous posts, I wrote about the perfect travel strategy.  The idea is doing something fulfilling and rewarding while living abroad for an extended time. The strategy is two-fold: one, nurture a skill you can apply in life, and two, create a balanced routine which is important for staying sane when living [...]

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