Burned Out in Colombia: Rethinking Long Term Living

by mavtraveler

Burned Out in Colombia

Burned Out in Colombia

LIVING NOT TRAVELING

I’ve been trying to write this post for a while now.  While each iteration helped to solidify my thoughts, it’s only after a month of writing I was able to really put these thoughts on paper (or in pixels).

Years ago, I used to backpack and I loved it.  However, recently as I got older (and hopefully wiser) I started searching for opportunities to actually live in a place.

So instead of constant shuttling between different cities at breakneck speeds, I decided that I’d be cool to actually settle down and stay in a place for a while.

The difference is that unlike when you spend a day or two in the city — when you live, you engage and give your one hundred percent.  You learn the language, understand the culture, build a social circle, etc.  It’s not easy but forces you to grow out of your comfort zone and learn more about yourself.

I have no problem opening myself up and diving into new cultures, and that’s exactly what I’ve been doing for the past few years.  First it was Argentina, then Mexico and just recently Brazil.

However interesting things started to happen as I became a local in many countries.

During my stay in Brazil, as a consequence of learning the culture and language, I started to appreciate my culture (Russian) and hometown (New York City) more and more.

I noted many similarities between Brazilians and Russians.  Things such as strong emphasis on family values, defined male/female roles in relationships, etc.  The longer I lived, and the more I assimilated, the more proud of my own culture I became.

Brazil was to be only the beginning, a year later in Colombia I finally understood how it all tied together.

IT’S NOT ALL PEACHES

Many people rave about the friendly locals, or how safe the city, or myriad of other factors that puts a new city about their former hometown.

Sometimes I question such statements because such people always paint a rosy picture with absolutely nothing negative to say (don’t trust anyone who has absolutely nothing negative about anything).

I love exploring foreign lands as much as the next guy, but I also think it’s important to realize where you come from and who you are and never let you current “traveling indefinitely” or “global citizen” label take precedence of your true nationality.  If you lived 25 years in America and have been traveling “indefinitely” for about 2, 3 or 5 years, surely you’re still American, no matter how much “enlightened” you might have been by few years of traveling.

My stay in Colombia was mediocre.  I settled into an overhyped city that, as an added bonus, had the biggest ego in whole country.  I failed to make lasting connections and generally found the society rather inward looking and difficult to integrate to.

For instance most of the people I met have never left the country.  Thus they viewed their country and especially their city as the most civilized and technologically advanced place in the world.  Maybe as a result of foreigner fatigue, most locals viewed foreigners with indifference rarely caring where they are from or what their purpose in the country were.

And for someone who understands the culture, the history and even speaks fluent Spanish with Latin American accent, this indifference proved to be a hurdle difficult to overcome.

 WHY AM I …

Thus I began doubting my efforts.

“Why am I living in some third world shit hole when my home and family is in the capital of the world (New York City)?”

“Why am I trying to understand their culture when they haven’t the slightest idea where my birth place is located on the map (Hint: it’s a big country in Europe)?”

“Why am I studying their language (and slang, accent) so thoroughly when as soon as I open my mouth they’ll know I’m a foreigner and will be discriminated against one way or another”

“Why am I chasing their women, when they’re the biggest gold-diggers I’ve ever encountered in Latin America?” (Medellin)

“Why am I spending money in their country when I know I’ll have to fight with a taxi driver over a bullshit “recargo” charge at the end of the night?” (Cali)

“Why am I feeding their ego by saying how beautiful the city is when it’s biggest cookie-cutter, concrete, soul-less jungle with the ego to go with it and no redeeming qualities I’ve ever been to?” (Medellin)

 

As more time passed, the more questions like the above forced me to contemplate my existence in this country and the more my appreciation of my own culture grew.

APPRECIATION 

It was only on this recent trip back to New York that I finally began to appreciate all that the city has to offer.

I felt comfortable in New York in a way that I’ve never felt before.  It’s truly a dynamic, cosmopolitan city where everyone has an opportunity to come in and prove themselves.

It’s a city that doesn’t discriminate.  A city that doesn’t care what language you speak or what accent you have (although I do love my NY accent).

Unlike Colombia, you’ll never be called a gringo (which I consider slightly derogatory) here and even after a year you can start calling yourself a New Yorker, something that can rarely be done anywhere outside the US.

SPECIFIC AIM

I’m not saying that I’m closing the door on future long term travel plans, but what I’m saying that my future long term travel plans will have specific goals in mind.

Those goals might be to learn a language, or maybe to open a business, or a similar purpose that will somehow help me achieve a goal.

I will view it a fixed-time aim (1, 3 or 6 months) instead of some hazily defined indefinite stint with no concrete aim in sight.

This is the end of aimless wondering in places that I after I leave I still scratch my head and question how I ended up wasting my time for so long.

This is the end of self-searching and the beginning of something more substantial.

If you liked that, you'll probably like these too:

  1. Medellin – The Monotone City; The Truth About Living in Medellin, Colombia
  2. Living Series: Medellin, Colombia
  3. A Russian Who Spoke Fluent Spanish
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  • http://www.gobackpacking.com Dave

    Man, you’ve said some harsh things about Medellin before, and I’m trying not to respond defensively, but I disagree in so many ways! I can’t help but think your experience in the city is clouded by something else….maybe related to these bigger personal themes you speak of in this post.  

    You have a right to your feelings, but seriously, Medellin is a place I’ve been proud to call home for 18 of the last 36 months, and I’m taken aback to hear you think of it as “some third world shit hole” and honestly believe “it’s biggest cookie-cutter, concrete, soul-less jungle with the ego to go with it and no redeeming qualities I’ve ever been to?”  
    Seriously?  I love NYC too.  I’m a New Yorker by birth, and in my heart, and always will be, but I can think of a hell of a lot worse places than Medellin and Colombia to pass 3 months. 

    In fact, I think it’s awesome when people take pride in their city and country.  I appreciate that about paisas.  They’re a proud people, just like New Yorkers.  And your busting their balls for it?  

    There are a ton of reasons why few Colombians have been outside the country, from poverty to decadeds of war, to red tape and pain in the ass processes for getting visas.  And you want to piss on their parade?  Give me a break man.  And give the paisas and Medellin a break while you’re at it.  

    • http://www.mavericktraveler.com Maverick Traveler

      Dave, I understand where you’re coming from.  Let me see if I can clarify my point of view further.

      The comment about,  ”some third world shit hole” was aimed at the whole Colombia instead of just Medellin when I travelled around and dealt with a lot of unscrupulous individuals, and just bullshit.  Travelling in Latin America for a long time, I was used to it, but at times it struck a cord that made Colombia seem less “special” and more on pace with its other Latin American neighbors instead of some amazing country everyone gives it credit for.

      Second, every city always has two sides, but we rarely talk/read about the other, not so savory side.  For example, I might like Rio, but I’m well aware that the city has one of the largest inequality and poverty in the world.  Furthermore one can say that It’s a shallow city dominated by arrogant residents who think their city is end of it all.  So if you take this point of view, I can totally understand and accept your position.

      I agree that paisas are very proud of their city but there’s generally a dash of arrogance that overshadows that.  They really couldn’t care less about the rest of the world.  There was no curiosity about your background. 

      Take the city I’m in now – Copenhagen, the residents are very proud of their city but also love hearing about New York, a city they admire and look with awe.  I had the same impression with people I met in Berlin and also people in London.  

      And I do believe the city has no soul.  I’ve been to most Latin American capitals and Medellin is the only city that I felt was clearly missing something.  Other foreigners I met also mentioned that it’s a “myth” and “overhyped”

      To each is own.

      • http://www.gobackpacking.com Dave

        The only reason I think it’s overhyped is that it’s been closed off to the rest of the world and tourism for so long (due to conflict, Escobar, etc). When people arrive with old stereotypes still in the back of their minds, and then see how *relatively* peaceful and pretty the country is….well they load on the superlatives.  

        When I started my blog in 2009, it was to help get the word out. After TONS of negative press, and Medellin formerly being the murder capital of the world, some degree of hype is necessary to break through all the stereotypes.Does that lead some people to visit the city, like you, only to be disappointed?  I’m sure it does.  But overall, I’ve heard far more positive impressions of the city and country than negative. Once I see the rest of South America later this year, I’ll be better able to put Medellin and Colombia, in perspective.  I’ll keep you posted.

  • douleur

    Maybe you got a bit tired of the efforts of being a citizen of the world. If you were in Medellin in another moment, you could have a different view of it. It’s not easy to “adapt” ourselves everytime, sometimes we need a break. Go take it. ;)

    • http://www.mavericktraveler.com Maverick Traveler

      Agreed.  It’s time to retire Latin Amera for a while.

  • Chromailbox-cr

    “This is the end of aimless wondering in places that I after I leave I still scratch my head and question how I ended up wasting my time for so long.”

    Exactly what I felt after 4 months in Medellin and Cali… Very empty. You can’t rely on people there. Appointments mean shit.

    • http://www.mavericktraveler.com Maverick Traveler

      Can’t speak for Cali too much since I didn’t spend as much time there but
      Medellin was the most unreliable (for meeting people) city I’ve ever been to
      in my life.

      It was absolutely impossible to make any kind of concrete plans with any
      local.

  • Joker

    Awesome post!  Fuck those fucking fuckers!  Advanced cultures ftw!

  • Chromailbox-cr

    Also, After a month in Medellin, I was bored to death with their Paisa arrogance:

    - “Medellin is the best city in the world!” “Medellin is the best city in the world!”
    - So what else do you know outside Medellin?
    - “nothing”…

    Cali is not as arrogant but women are totally unreliable as well. They make an appointment, then they don’t come (and don’t reply their phone) and then they call you the next day to meet up.

    Be prepared for a lot of this BS in Colombia… ten times more than other Latin countries I know.

  • Sam

    I would have researched the destination more before going there for many months.  I assume you went there because you probably heard some encouraging things from Roosh and some other guys.  It seems a lot of dudes do this.  What I mean is that they are very easily influenced, and so off they go to Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, Medellin, etc. for extended periods.   I would try to have more imagination than that.  Try to do more what suits you, instead of blindly  following the advice of others.

    • http://www.mavericktraveler.com Maverick Traveler

      I actually went to Colombia (Bogota, Cartagena) for the first time in late
      2008 way before anyone else, and had a great time.

      Medellin was the natural choice given the great weather and being better
      organized than other Colombian cities. Unfortunately that’s all
      it has going for itself.

      • Sam

        What I mean is that all these guys go to Argentina, Brazil, and Colombia because someone else told them to do it.  (Isn’t that why you and everyone else hurried off to Colombia,  Buenos Aires, and Rio de Janiero?)  I was thinking it would be better if more guys would not do this, but instead try to think for themselves.  Maybe even come up with some new ideas and destinations, involving more imagination. 

        • http://www.mavericktraveler.com Maverick Traveler

          Well, I don’t think people go to a place like Rio because someone “told them” to.  It’s one of those 1-tier cities that everyone always wants to visit, like Paris or New York for instance.  You don’t need an excuse to visit a city of such calibre.  

          Now a city like Medellin or Cordoba you *really* should know exactly why you’re going there and what your purpose is.

  • http://twitter.com/guyfromguyana Guy

    Bro I hear you. I know you aint got a rosy picture of MDE but you gotta admit that time in Cali was waaaaaaaack! And las chicas in COL are by FAR better than the ones from the big G let me tell you… Back home we gotta import them from Trinidad & Tobago.
    But, glad to hear you got some purpose  now, tho. You gonna write us some memoirs??

  • Andy

    Did you read “Killing Pablo” before you went to Colombia?  If not, it should be required reading for anyone traveling to the country.  Written by the same guy who wrote “Black Hawk Down”, the place “makes sense” after reading the book the narco industry, the people, the politics, the violence and of course, the women.  

    • http://www.mavericktraveler.com Maverick Traveler

      I actually did read the book around 6 months before going to Medellin.  Even with the background and the understanding it’s still a tough place “to get”

  • Yuano

    that’s funny, but the percetion of Medellin is exactly the one I got from NYC…. what a fucking dump of a ghetto, outside of fifth avenue everything looks like a bombed out city…. capital of the world? hehehehehe souless, overpriced, racially segregated and of course… with lots of wannabes…  

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  • Agnetha_sv

    Third world shithole?  At least is a cultural third world shithole…. America with its endless malls, ignorant racist bastards, endless highways, grossly obese people, religious fanatism, rampant ignorance of anything not involving TV, shopping mall, the local suburbia and zero appreciation for arts or culture is much more of a shithole than colombia.

    I am from Sweden and I truly enjoyed Medellin much more than I enjoyed all the often overrated, suburban looking, acultural American cities, in Medellin it was a trip to discover, in America I felt like I was in some bloody twilight zone where you can even go to the pharmacy without having to get on an enormous SUV and drive a few kilometers thru isolated grossly built rows of houses filled with ignorant lunatics that barely have any contact with the world besides from work!

    Take colorful Medellin anytime over 99% of cities in the USA

  • Jojocastor

    I googled Colombia+Shit hole and ended up here. My wife is colombian and I spent a lot of time in Cali which is one of the deepest, stinkiest shit holes I’ve ever been to. You can even ask my wife, she’ll tell you colombia is a shit hole too. Everything is way overpriced, dangerous, violent, dirty, stinky and so on…. Colombia es un pais de ladrones!

  • Ad_hhe

    Dude, I’ve lived in the states for 22 years and need to be reminded everyday by someone how I am a foreigner in this country eventhough I’ve lived here longer than where I was born just  because I have a very slight accent. Quite often this is done by making some smart ass reply using an irritating and exaggerated accent that doesn’t even resemble mine, maybe they’ll use one like the guy on scarface or some other annoying crap like that (did anyone do that to you in Colombia?). On the other hand, this usually happens quite often to me  if I decide to engage in national politicsl or a social discussion. I’ve been exposed to the most unthinkable and offensive comments, questions and remarks that I could fill a whole page writing about it  and by categories, dating, work, social, etc. Let me add that I have thick skin and am not easily offended, my motto is to disregard ignorant comments. Even then, the things that I’ve been exposed to here are so repetitive and ignorant that they just enhance the negative stereotype that some Americans have abroad. Let me not even get into the experiences I’ve had with women, men who can’t talk about anything BUT sport who are flat-out, biggoted yankee red-necks and people who are very excluding and cliquish. Like I said,  I could categorize it and sub-categorize it. BUT EVEN THEN, when I leave this country and someone asks me about the people, I am not going to label the whole country and its people as negative because of what I personally experienced here knowing that there are many positive aspects to it and many positive-good people also live here and that is the case almost anywhere. And I’ll do this despite the fact that with the exception of my time spent in Atlanta and New York, my experience in most of the country had negative aspects. That’s why after so long I’ve decided to pack up and go. Wanna talk about proud ego-centric people? in a great portion of the country, I’d be very afraid to say that I questions the alleged weapons of mass destruction in Irak or anything that would hurt the American pride. I had someone lash out at me and make a very rude comment at me just because I said that I got quality dental work done abroad for a fraction of the price and this happened in CT. I’m gonna stop now eventhough I could go on forever. The only thing I though often is thank G-d I look European, but even then , their attitude and perception towards me changed after realizing that I spoke spanish because everthing is so stereotyped here and everyone classifies you. They think they know you because your language etc.

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